Day 17: Sunset Bay – Denmark

Day 17: Sunset Bay – Denmark (KOA)

Distance: 45.88 miles.
Time: 4:14.
Average Speed: 10.8 mph.

Typically on this trip, I’ve liked to follow a big day, with a small day, and today was a small day.

I woke at 9, the 75 miles yesterday having taken it out of me, but I was feeling more confident in my ability to cover the miles as and when required. I wasn’t as convinced in my bike’s ability to reinvigorate itself, however. In the long hours of yesterday evening, my gears had become a grinding, stuttering mess, and there was a sporadic unidentified squeak that was hugely worrying.

So this morning, I was planning the long overdue overhaul of my bike’s drivetrain, and with a miniature can of WD40 and half a roll of toilet roll, I was ready to begin. The end result was a vast improvement, and at least I had some gears that seemed to be running smoothly. Then, when going on a test ride around the campsite, I was horrified to find that the back brake wasn’t working at all, but a few tugs at the cable and it started to work a little, at least.


I set off around half 12, and took in views of Cape Arago lighthouse before making my way into Charleston for lunch. Stopping at the ‘High Tide’ cafe, I enjoyed a burger before ensuring to follow it with a wonderfully sweet slab of caramel cake, as I’m watching my calories. Whilst there, a nice family from Idaho were supportive of my trip, and recommended some of the great spots in California for the weeks ahead.

It was 3 o’clock, and I’d cycled under 5 miles. Not a strong start to the day, but ensuring the bike keeps on rolling is kind of important too, I guess.

I headed out of Charleston on Seven Devils Road, it was fantastic cycling with steep hills and swooping bends, the miles flew by, it was a real treat after weeks of pounding along Highways.

I was back on the highway soon enough, but not for long as I followed the guidebook’s advice to take to the coast round Bandon, and I’m certainly glad I did. The bay around Bandon was littered with stacks, it was an awesome sight.


I had taken aim on a KOA campsite in Denmark (Oregon) for the night and that left 13 miles to go. It was pleasant cycling, inland, through pastures and wooded hillside. I arrived at the campsite at 7 and set up camp. I was short on miles for the day, but a good night’s sleep, and there will be a bigger day along tomorrow, no doubt.


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