Day 14: Lookout Bay State Park – Beverly Beach State Park
Distance; 57.05 miles.
Average Speed: 9.5
If I learn nothing else from my journey, at least I learned where Cape Foulweather got its name.
I was feeling quite tired this morning, perhaps apprehensive about a long day with 3 big climbs and a headwind. I left the campsite at half 10, immediately starting the biggest climb of the trip so far, Cape Lookout, a 3 mile climb up and over a 260 metre headland. At least the view was good – from a viewpoint halfway up, which, allegedly, also doubles as a hang glider runway.
I arrived in Pacific City, 17 miles in, ready for lunch. I happened upon a Pelican Brewing Company gastropub right by the beach, having previously come across a branch in Tillamook, just after I’d eaten, I was keen to try it. My waiter, knowing a thirsty cyclist when he saw one, instinctively brought me a refill of Pepsi along with the first one. Then shortly after bringing my food, another turned up!
After lunch, I bumped into an English cyclist setting off on a trans-American journey. He had started in Astoria the day before, and was shortly about to head East, never having cycle-toured before and planning 100 miles a day!
I was soon in Neskowin and it was time for the second climb, the cycle route seemed to take the old highway but I thought it might be a shortcut if I stayed on route 101. It was, I saved about 6 miles, but it was a fearsomely severe incline which didn’t let up at all until it reached the top, around 250m ascent in 2 miles.
With the two biggest climbs out of the way and now over 30 miles done I felt like I was getting somewhere, and was thinking that the further of the two campsites I’d looked at, Beverly Beach, should be reachable. As soon as I thought that, I punctured. Typical.
After Lincoln City, the weather started to take a turn for the worse, and after a fair day so far, the rain got heavier and heavier. And while it did, the scenery got better and better, I desperately wished I had more time to spend at Fogerty Beach, Boiler Bay and Depoe Bay.
Still I plugged away, into the relentless rain. 7 o’clock now and quite gloomy, I still had one hurdle to overcome, Cape Foulweather. Another punishing climb, and this time in abysmal conditions, worse still, the descent, with the howling wind chilling my sodden clothes and trucks speeding passed, covering me in spray.
The headwind almost blew me to a standstill but I finally reached Beverly Beach State Park, and tried to find somewhere my tent wouldn’t flood. A long hot shower later and some food in the tent, and still the storm rages on.